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Fabric in the 1860s was either made from plant or
protein or a combination of the two. The most common fibers during this time were:
- Cotton
- Pina cloth, a semi-transparent fabric using fiber found
in pineapple leaves; fashionable as summer dresses, shawls and handkerchiefs
- Silk
- Wool
Color and Design
- Most reproduction cotton prints today were
actually made up in wool in the 19th century. Calico referred to a type of cotton cloth, not the print.
- Bright colors possible in calico and wool
- Work dresses usually of darker background color to hide
stains
- Both cotton and wool
printed or woven designs
- Solid
colored wool dresses common, solid colored cotton dresses very uncommon to none
Period designs
- Vermiculate—squiggly lines like worms or coral
- Picotage—tiny dots in various patterns
- Ogee—wavy stripes
- Geometric—small, spaced
geometrics, stripes, plaids, foulards, ditsies and dum-dums (last two scattered symbols with no particular meaning), can look
almost modern
- Eccentric—bizarre, complicated lines, can also
appear modern
- Neats or shirtings—small simple patterns, floral
or geometrics, one or two colors set sparsely in a regular pattern on a white ground. Domestic neats were inexpensive.
- Small plaids—printed or woven; wovens reversible; small plaids easier to match
- Windowpane plaids
- Florals—bouquets
and nosegays on top of striped pattern; with ribbons; buds on a dotted or vermiculite background; leaves and branches on pale
ground; moderate size, uncluttered and space between patterns
- Paisley—adapted
from traditional Indian textile patterns, a stylized botanical form, an oval shape with a curl on the end. Large boteh in
set and spaced layouts. Buti smaller
stylized boteh and found in all-over, small scale patterns.
- Commemorative or conversational prints—expressed
political sentiments or honored important events; highlighted objects other than flowers.
- Ombre—gradual shading of color(s), less popular after 1860
- Objects—bugs, anchors, horsehsoes, sewing implements,
flags, cannons on white ground
- Trompe
l'oeil—patterns printed to look like other textures; basket weaves, ribbons, ruffles, moiré, lace
- Handwoven—even or uneven plaids, usually small repeat,
simple or complex, stripes; some interesting weaves with plied threads
Period color combinations
- Green & brown
- Raspberry & aqua
- Blue and tan
- Orangey red & black or light purple or light blue
- Pink & brown
- Purple & brown
- Khaki with red & green
- Orange & navy
- Yellow & navy
- Peach not widely used but sometimes with mint or aqua
green
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